Prague, 4:30 AM

Well, a few hours to go before the train to Split, so I figured I could get caught up on the blog - lots to share now as I fear the internet access in Croatia may not be so easily found. The last couple of days have been a blur, a tired cliche yes, yet somehow it seems the most appropriate description.

Yesterday, I befriended a tour guide here in Prage. His name is Lukas. Born in the Ukraine, he has been here since he was five years old. He took me to lunch, for some authentic Czech cuisine. I ordered the Goulash (even though the Hungarians told me that goulash was their traditional dish?). The food arrived on a large platter - in the middle, a pool of brown gravy covered some type of meat, while the sides showcased two versions of potato creations. On the left side, two potato pancakes rested with a bit of green sprinkled on top, and on the left, were two potato dumplings. I tore into the food, and after a bite of everything, decided the only thing really worth eating were the potato pancakes. If I could get the recipe, I would make these every week. The goulash, lukewarm and uninspired, left me longing for the amazing Hungarian version. The potato dumplings, strangly named, seemed like balls of warmed-up Wonderbread. The offerings, basic and bland, certainly did not win me over to adding Czech food to my favorites list. Lucky for Thailand, their cuisine remains at my top.

The conversation with Lukas made up for the average food. His aunt worked for the KGB back during the days before Perestroika and Glasnost (you remember Mikhail Gorbachev right?) and was one of the party loyalists who read the incoming and outgoing mail. She was responsible for taking a black marker to the portions of letters that were deemed unacceptable, for whatever reason. I laughed whe Lukas said that sometimes, she simply tossed entire letters, when too full of censored information. Since his family still lives in the Ukraine, I could not help myself but inquire regarding their views of the new Russia. Following the collapese of the former USSR, Ukraine became its own independent state, no longer under the control of the Russians. I was curious to see what his parents and family tell him about the changes, and whether or not they like capitalism over communism. As expected, based upon all that I have read, his family is mixed. They enjoy the freedoms - and, most of all the materialism capitalism offers. However, his family is bitter about the loss of basics like jobs, housing, healthcare, cars, heat, and food that used to be provided under the Soviet system. As expected, the old are transitioning slower while the younger citizens have embraced materialism with great zest.

Later that day, I befriended Michael, my first full-blooded Czech friend. He invited me to dinner (although it was understood that as the visiting tourist, I would pay). A traditional Czech pub, located at the mouth of the Charles Bridge served as our destination point. Michael worked at a Bohemian Crystal shop (one of the few remaining Czech industries) selling crystal chandeliers, art objects, and other brick-a-brack to curious tourists. I learned that his goal in sharing dinner with me was to improve his American English so that he could better do his job by communicating better in colliquial English. When we sat, Michael mentioned that food was a passion. Sure to his word, I realized this kid could eat. Three beers, a basket of bread, and a large seared tuna entre later, and still he wanted more. I was beginning to see the forrest through the proverbial trees. He pursuaded me to order the traditional pork platter (cannot remember the name). When it arrived, I noticed a large piece of sliced ham, a 14 inch piece of sausage, and a lean/boneless pork chop - smothered in red cabage with a different type of potato pancakes than the ones I received at lunch. After a few forkfuls, I came to the same conclusion as before - not my favorite. Following what turned out to be a very expensive dinner (I think he may get kickbacks from this place?), we wandered around old town at night. During the journey, I ended up buying him a gelato, and yes, belive it or not, another ice cream concoction from McDonalds of all places.

Inside McDonalds, I found an expensive camera and case sitting on the counter. Immediately, I sensed Michael wanted it for himself as he explained that the staff at McDonalds would just keep it since they don't make a lot of money. Now, after being burglarized twice - and losing all of my electronics (computers, phones, cameras, etc), I know how important pictures are once they are gone. I simply had to find the owner. I kept the camera and did not let Michael touch it, even though he asked a few times. We looked through the pictures to see if there was one of a hotel or anything that could help me identify the owner. Nothing significant, just a bunch of tourist shots, could offer me much assistance. Then, Michael offered to take the camera and leave his information with McDonalds in case the owner returned. Now, I have to admit, I did not believe him. So, I said, I would leave my business card with McDonalds. I instructed the workers that if the owner returned, to give her my business card so that I could return it. An hour later, my phone rang, but I could not retrive it from my pocket quickly enough. When I tried to return the call, my phone could not connect. Back at the hotel later the next day, I found an email from the owner letting me know that she was leaving Prague at 10AM and hoped to get her camera back. The hotel helped me call her (too late) and I learned she was already on her way to the airport. I assured Anette (her name) that I would send it to her in Norway once I return to Los Angeles (since I told her I did not trust to send it from Croatia or Czech). She was so funny over the phone, telling me that she only wanted the disc (since the photos are irreplacable) and that I could keep the camera. I let her know that I had a very nice camera already - she would be receiving her camera and disc from me. When I checked facebook today, I noticed that she had sent me a friend request. Now I have a friend in Norway, my first!