Sunday, August 23, 2009

Walking About Budapest

Like any good tourist, I had an agenda - my list of things to see, and experiences not to miss, during my nine days in the city. My homework prior to my arrival in Budapest - online research, books, travel shows, and conversations with Hungarians - surprised even me, since I tend to "wing it" when I travel. I compiled everything into a compact little folder that I shoved into the computer compartment of my backpack. Now that I was more mobile, sans the backpack, the list could be removed, read, then easily followed. The first item, strolling down Andrassy Boulevard, seemed a great place to start. It was noon, the sun was shining - already warming the air - and I wanted to take off my clothes. Andrassy crossed near the hotel, so it was an easy jaunt to begin the trip. I peeled off my shirt, let my shorts slide down past my hips, and began the stroll. I wondered to myself if showing my bare chest in Budapest was culturally insensitive, but did not let it press my conscience enough to keep me from doing what I wanted. The spray tan I got before I left LA was not going to last forever, so some natural sun (Vitamin D production is key to good health) seemed appropriate. I have to admit, my eyes did wander to passersby every so often to see if I was the only one without a shirt. Halfway through the stroll, I did notice one guy who probably should have left his on, but hey, at least I was not the only one doing it. As with most justifications, his one example was enough. The Andrassy, a massive tree-lined street begins in the city center and extends to what they call Hero's Square - a monument to former Kings of Hungaria and other heroes of the people. On either side of the street, regal and elegant, rest what can only be described as massive, architectural gems - places so grand, so picturesque that I got a little emotional looking at them. As someone who "flips" homes, these are the fantasy places of my dreams. And, considering some of them are in need, I let my mind race with potential. Most, however, shine - examples of the days when master stone masons and other craft/trade people genuinely cared about their work, their art. These places were built when money to the rich of Budapest probably seemed to be of little importance so long as the results were perfectly executed. As I walked the cobble stone path down the center, I imagined this place hundreds of years ago, during these grand times before cars and trucks, before the inconvenient conveniences we so desperately utilize today. The magic of this boulevard cast a spell over me and I lost all concept of time and place as I continued East toward Heroe's Square. The House of Terror temporarily caugt my attention, enough to knock me off the path and to the left side of the street. The building that houses this museum (a place where the horrific acts during the time of the communists in Hungary is presented) is superb. Although it is a modern structure, it somehow fits nicely among its drastically dissimilar neighbors. Once inside, the energy of the place - which I must admit was very negative - completely began to sour my mood. I have learned that even though these types of places are important (so that we don't repeat mistakes of great magnitude), they are not places I want to invite into my experience. Then and there, I opted against one of the items on my list (it is my list afterall) and headed back to the lively high of Andrassy Boulevard. Witnessing Heroe's Square and the surrounding museums and structures, reminded me of my trips to great cities like London, Paris, and even Istanbul. The city planners were genius. The scale, forms, planning, and overall layout create a sensation in the observer that simply overwhelms. Nearby, I wandered over to City Park which houses Vajdahunyad Castle and the Szechenyi Baths (which I was to visit later this day). I caught a wedding in the park, walked through a festival, enjoyed families with kids playing, running, and chasing. Basically, I did one of my favorite things - I watched people living their lives. After a number of hours, my jet-lag and lack of sleep propelled me to head back to the hotel for a little nap. On the way, I sipped a couple mini-bottles of Hungarian Schnapps (another not to miss experience) and walked down a parallel street - one that houses the foreign embassy buildings/homes and other mansions. Once back at the hotel, I fell fast asleep, content with my dreams of the day. I had a big night planned and needed some rest.

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